Based on the size of your room, you’ll wish to give yourself some time to finish it.
This includes adequate time to buy the material, give it some paint (before you start the installation), install it, and then perform some paint touch-upsTo cope with a crown molding, you must begin by installing the crown molding then go ahead with the coping crown molding.
- Caulking Gun
- Tape measure
- Cordless drill
- Brad nailer
- Miter saw
- Start with the Crown Molding preparation
Normal house construction can make it hard to add a nail across the crown molding directly into something that can sustain the molding’s weight. And nothing is boring like a molding piece falling on you.
Therefore, before you start your project, make sure you have a finish nailer that can push 3-inch nails. A 3-inch nail at the crown molding center can pass through the two horizontal lumber pieces used in framing the upper side of the wall. But if you only have a brad nailer that can accommodate 2-inch nail capacity, then you must get some little creativity.
To ensure that there’s something hard to push the nails inside, you can begin by cutting small triangular wedges. Then, screw them on the wall to give you a good and proper piece that even a 1-inch nail can pass through.
- Install the First Pieces
Once you’ve pre-painted the molding and it has dried, start installing the first pieces of the wedges. The cope crown molding makes the fitting pieces together at the corners inside easy compared to mitering.
When coping with any molding, be it crown molding or base molding, the piece on one part of the joint must be cut straight while the other side should be properly cut to be lined up with the molding profile.
When you think of installing the crown molding, make sure you consider your door’s location. You can install the pieces in such a way that visitors coming to your room may not be able to look at the coped joint directly.
- Nail Across the Molding On To the Triangular Pieces of Blocks
Make sure you don’t go a step further and nail the trim throughout the length of the wall. Be sure to keep the ends free as this will give you an easy time to adjust the fit of the joint that is coped.
- Now Begin The Cope Crown Molding Process
After installing the pieces, its now time to cope crown molding. The steps are straightforward and here’s what to do:
- Start by measuring the length from the inside part of the trim pieces you initially installed
- Crown molding is a bit thicker at the upper side in comparison to the lower side. You can measure from the upper side of one piece to the upper side of the other one if you need some consistency.
- Then mark the molding at this measurement. Once you are done with taking the measurements, mark it on the molding piece then use a miter saw to cut it at 45 degrees.
- Also, you can cut the molding in an upside-down manner on the miter saw if you wish. Doing this helps you hold it on the fence at the desired angle. Additionally, since the molding is a bit “thicker” on the upper side, the upper side of the coped piece might be a bit short compared to the bottom. This will help you remember the direction of the cut angle.
- Sketch the edge where the miter cut joins with the trim’s face. The main reason for constructing the 45-degree cut is to come up with a molding profile. The molding profile helps you to cope it using a hand saw. To ensure the profile stands out perfectly, you can use a pencil to trace the edges where the raw wood and the painted surface meet.
- Use a coping saw to cut. Coping saw is vital as they only consume a little practice to master. Therefore, make sure you practice first using some scrap pieces. Remember that crown molding will certainly hang along the wall at an angle.
- Check fit then trim any parts if possible. Use a piece of scrap molding to do this then fine-tune them using a rasp or the coping saw.
- Having completed making these cuts, make sure you add some wood glue on the end sides of the coped pieces. Place the molding in a good position then fix it on the triangular blocks on the room’s wall. If the coped joint doesn’t fit properly on the corner, then you can use a shim to fix the gap between the pieces.
To finalize the installation process, ensure you run a paintable bead caulking on the edges. You do this on the molding you initially constructed meets the wall and the ceiling board. You can also caulk the joints along with the corners then fill the nail holes. Then paint over the caulking.